What is the future of men’s fashion weeks? Is the menswear calendar shrinking?

Men’s Fashion Weeks have kicked off in fashion capitals around the world. Last week, it was in London that the catwalks came alive with diverse and colorful designs.

Those in Milan and Florence followed closely, and this is the exciting episode in Paris this week.

Still, it seems not all men’s fashion weeks are as daring as they used to be — at least in the case of some cities.

The London Fashion Week menswear shows turned out to be a lean affair. Emphasis was also placed only on emerging designers, rather than the big popular fashion houses.

She’s gotten rid of the ‘men’ tag completely and instead what used to be known as London Fashion Week Men’s is now called London Fashion Week June Edition.

The so-called “main event” (which largely features women’s clothing) is scheduled for September.

This has led to questions about London’s suitability for an international menswear exhibition. The British Fashion Council hasn’t even designated an official location for last week’s shows.

Italy, however, maintained the status quo.

The Pitti Uomo event in Florence confirmed several big names – Brunello Cucinelli being one – and even managed to continue to attract renowned designers from other countries, such as Grace Wales Bonner (UK) and Ann Demeulemeester (Belgium) , to join.

There was great anticipation for the Milan Men’s Fashion Week shows. In the month leading up to the launch, industry insiders were already calling it “pre-pandemic worthy.”

Moschino, Versace, Fendi, Prada, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and more have been seen lending their star power to the city’s menswear extravaganza.

Carlotta Barrera walked the runway during London Fashion Week. Photo: AFP

A little bit of everything

As for Paris Fashion Week Men, which is currently taking place, the calendar promises to be busier than ever.

Sacred fashion houses such as Dior, Hermès and Louis Vuitton are all on the program. Other recognizable names like Rick Owens, Loewe, Givenchy and Paul Smith also presented runway shows.

Not to mention the slightly more underground labels, but still planetary favourites: Comme Des Garçons, Issey Miyake and Junya Watanabe.

Interestingly, the United States has long since dropped its New York Fashion Week Men’s. In 2020, the Council of Fashion Designers of America postponed the menswear calendar, and from there it fell off the map.

All that’s left is something called “Men’s Day” during the main New York Fashion Week, which only includes a few hours set aside for designers to showcase menswear collections.

Some fashion capitals have canceled their men's week but others have continued the tradition.  Photo: Instagram/Brunello CucinelliSome fashion capitals have canceled their men’s week but others have continued the tradition. Photo: Instagram/Brunello CucinelliThat said, menswear still has its exciting elements. In terms of design, the aesthetic seen at shows in recent weeks is as varied as it gets.

Sure, streetwear remains a favorite for men, but sleek tailoring is doing its best to make a strong and compelling comeback.

As much as the industry has railed against seasonal collections during the pandemic, it seems like we’re back to how it was before.

For Spring/Summer 2023, you can expect plenty of models for warm weather dressing. This is also once again the trend of the hour.

Hardly the kind of timeless pieces that designers were talking about and championing, back when Covid-19 shut down the industry completely.

Spanish designer Carlota Barrera presented a collection drawn from Cuba for her London Fashion Week showcase. This is her first physical appearance for the schedule, as her past shows have all been virtual.

Labrum London instead brought guests to Sierra Leone. Founder Foday Dumbuya celebrated his birthplace, where his designs blended classic British tailoring with West African influences.

With Pitti Uomo in Florence, Brunello Cucinelli’s show turned out to be a star-studded event. Actors Jonathan Bailey, Taron Egerton and James Cusati-Moyer were spotted among the guests.

“It’s wonderful for us to be back in Florence for the new edition of (Pitti Uomo), an event that we particularly love because of the important role it plays in the world of international men’s fashion,” said then said Cucinelli on Instagram.

Always a world of guys

Dolce & Gabbana opened Milan Men’s Fashion Week with aplomb. The fashion house went through its archives and sent models from past collections to the catwalk, but updated to adapt to the times.

It was a nice combination of old and new. A tailored tuxedo paired with ripped jeans, for example.

Speaking of timeless favorites, veteran actor Jeff Goldblum stole the show when introducing Prada as a front-row guest. He was fully dressed in the label.

He told the media, “I love wearing these clothes. These are my favorite clothes!”

For all its drama and excitement, maybe men’s fashion weeks aren’t needed anymore. After all, designers showcased men’s designs alongside their womenswear during regular fashion weeks.

Goldblum (right) poses for a photo backstage at the Prada Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection shown in Milan.  Photo: APGoldblum (right) poses for a photo backstage at the Prada Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection shown in Milan. Photo: AP

Most cities don’t even have a specific schedule for men. All you have to do is look a little harder and you will notice some gorgeous and remarkable designs for men among the regular shows.

In March, during Lakme Fashion Week in New Delhi, Indian designer Siddartha Tytler presented masculine looks that wowed the public.

Earlier this month, Brazilian designer Lino Villaventura also showcased some stunning menswear during his show at Sao Paulo Fashion Week.

In 2020, Donatella Versace told She in an interview that fashion must change. It was during the pandemic.

“We had fashion week in September; men’s fashion week in June, and it hasn’t changed in years and years. When something never changes, it’s no longer relevant, and the most important thing is to keep fashion relevant,” she said.

While some things have gone back to what they were – seasonal clothing, for starters, maybe it’s good that others, like a men’s and women’s combo show, show that the fashion industry isn’t not as stuffy or rigid as she is perceived. be.

In the meantime, all eyes around the world are currently on the men’s festivities in Paris.

Marine Serre, known and celebrated for her exceptionally avant-garde designs and campaigns, is set to debut at Paris Fashion Week Men’s (instead of Womenwear Week) this Saturday. His fans are waiting impatiently.

Now that’s definitely a big male energy going on.

About Allen L. Campbell

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